![\"Drain](\"https:\/\/norimen.net\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/2026-08-18-16.18.55.jpg\")
<\/p>\nHello, everyone.<\/p>\n
This is Enta.<\/p>\n
As for recent work trends, the number of projects has dropped off sharply\u2014it seems like I\u2019m supposed to be busy, but I\u2019m not at all!<\/p>\n
These are becoming increasingly difficult times...<\/p>\n
But that's beside the point.<\/p>\n
This time, I\u2019ll talk about doing spray application at a job site where there\u2019s an unusual amount of water.<\/p>\n
Slopes where water just keeps running down\u2014they\u2019re a real pain to spray, aren\u2019t they?
\nIf you were to ask what the easiest solution is in such situations, the answer would definitely be a quick-setting adhesive.
\nI think that's a sure thing.
\nAnother method is to insert plenty of drainage holes and play while allowing water to flow through them.<\/p>\n
That said, I hope the water diversion goes smoothly, but in reality, it rarely does.
\nIf you keep spraying over the same spot again and again, it tends to build up to quite a thickness there.<\/p>\n
So today, I\u2019m going to write about what we should do about that.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
First, I will explain why spraying on slopes with spring water is difficult.<\/p>\n
With sprayed mortar and sprayed concrete, if water is continuously supplied to the sprayed surface, it can cause poor adhesion or sagging.
\nEven if you apply it directly over the water channel, the mortar won\u2019t adhere properly in that area, causing it to flake off or resulting in uneven thickness.<\/p>\n
If you use a strong hemostatic agent, the bleeding will stop temporarily, but that alone won't solve the problem at its root.
\nSince water will always find a way to escape, water pressure can build up behind the point where you stopped the leak, causing it to gush out from another weak spot.<\/p>\n
![\"Sprayed](\"https:\/\/norimen.net\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/115bd6022296d0b69eb780dd8136384f.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
The most important part of fixing this is determining the \u201ccenter\u201d where the water is coming out.
\nThis is the most important thing!<\/p>\n
If you ask me how I decide, to be honest, it's just a gut feeling.
\nI touch the slope, listen for the sound of flowing water, and feel the changes in moisture to figure out where the main stream is lol
\nSharpen your instincts and draw on your past experiences!<\/p>\n
As I recalled why I became a slope contractor in the first place, I looked back on my life as a slope contractor so far, and in the middle, \u201cYee-haw!!<\/strong>\"Please decide on that!\"<\/p>\n As long as you control the center of the water flow, you can direct the water to that single point and let it drain away, allowing you to apply the spray while keeping the surrounding area dry. Once you've determined the center of the water channel, drill a drainage hole there.<\/p>\n If the slope is soft, the most effective method is to drill holes about 50 mm in diameter using a rock drill and insert perforated pipes into them. However, if you don\u2019t have a rock drill, or if the job doesn\u2019t require such a large-scale operation\u2014or if you simply can\u2019t do it\u2014drilling a horizontal hole about 1 meter deep with a hammer drill is more than sufficient. Install a drainpipe at the opening of the hole, but if you insert a thin, shaped anti-suck-back material inside, it will effectively allow only water to pass through while preventing the outflow of soil and sediment.<\/p>\n It's just a small thing, but doing it this way allows the water to drain more efficiently, which also improves the appearance of the sprayed surface.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n We've been talking about draining water so far, but in reality, there are probably very few job sites where water is gushing out that don't require the use of rapid-setting agents.<\/p>\n It's easier to use, and it gets the job done faster.<\/p>\n So I don't intend to dismiss quick-setting agents themselves.<\/p>\n However, we must not forget that quick-setting agents also have their drawbacks. The greater the extent of freeze-thaw cycles in a region, the more severe the impact\u2014and this can sometimes result in the material cracking and shattering. That\u2019s exactly why it\u2019s important to follow the proper order: first drain the water to reduce the volume, and then blow it out. On slopes with plenty of spring water, as long as you keep the water flow under control, it\u2019s actually surprisingly easy to play there. <\/p>\n See you later.<\/p>\n
\nConversely, if you miss this spot, no matter how many drainage pipes you install, the water won't flow in the direction you want.<\/p>\n![\"Identifying](\"https:\/\/norimen.net\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/09\/8041063cc8f3788aad45ce9332df4e5d.jpg\")
<\/p>\nSpecific Procedures for Drilling and Installing Drain Pipes<\/h2>\n
\nThis is by far the most powerful.<\/p>\n
\nThe larger the hole, the easier it is to collect water, so if possible, use a hammer drill bit to drill a hole about 19 mm or 22 mm in diameter.<\/p>\n\n
What Happens If You Rely Too Much on Laxatives?<\/h2>\n
\nThe more you use it, the lower the strength of the sprayed mortar and concrete becomes.<\/p>\n
\nThe more you force a stop using a quick-setting agent, the more likely it is that it will take a toll on the material's long-term durability.<\/p>\n
\nA quick-setting agent is meant for the final touches; it is not a tool you should rely on from the start.<\/p>\n
\nInstead of relying entirely on rapid-setting agents, we\u2019ll ensure the water drains properly through drilling and drainage pipes.
\nThat\u2019s how we want to continue carrying out our construction work with a high standard of quality.<\/p>\n